The full length Peak Epic is quite a challenge! So we have a few tips to help you survive!
Climbing and Cadence
The PEAK EPIC’s 4000 metres of climbing is a lot! It’s more than 3x up Ben Nevis, almost 4x up Alpe d’Huez. This is where the real challenge of the PEAK EPIC lies, in the climbing!
To be classified as a finisher of the PEAK EPIC you have to complete the course within 10 hours. Whilst 10mph or 16.2kph may not seem very hard, this equates to 400 metres of climbing per hour. That might seem OK, but you have to keep that up for 10 hours. So here are some practical tips to help you achieve that!
Aim to climb at 400-500 metres per hour
First tip is to get used to climbing 400-500 metres an hour for 3-4 hours (a 1500-2000m ascent ride). In order to complete the PEAK EPIC, climbing 400m per hour should become relatively easy to do on 3-4 hour rides. (Note you will have to design routes with as minimal flat as possible.) Work out how much your current ‘hilly’ ride equates to in climbing per hour then go from there.
(Don’t have a Garmin or computer that works out total ascent? Plot your ride on GPSies which has pretty accurate elevation data.)
Climbing Position
Climbing places you and your bike into a different position to riding on the flat. During seated climbing your centre of body mass is moved backwards, effectively sitting you much further behind the pedals which forces different muscles to work. If your body isn’t adapted to riding uphill your body will let you know, often through the knees or with lower back pain. This is why it’s essential to get used to climbing and become efficient in that position.
Some advice for efficient climbing
- Stay stable – try to keep upper body and hips as stable as possible.
- Light grip – at times steep gradients will make you clench the bars and grit your teeth, however when you can, keep a light grip as it is all about using as little energy as possible.
- Eyes ahead – don’t try and force your head up but do keep your eyes up the road rather than fixed on your stem! It will allow you to read the road and select the right gear for the next section of the climb.
- Alter position – make sure you do get out of the saddle now and again whilst climbing. It will aid aches and pains by changing your position on the bike, forcing other muscles to do some work.
Optimum Cadence
High cadence, spinning low gears, is the most efficient way to climb isn’t it? Maybe not?!
Watching a mountain stage of the Tour de France you can see how the cadence of the Pro Riders varies massively. Froome and Contador spin a light gear furiously (90-100rpm) however others like Valverde will turn a bigger gear slower. Is Valverde wrong? I don’t think so, more likely that for him large gears are the most efficient way to climb.
Try the same ride spinning up hills at 95-100rpm then on another day try at lower cadence e.g. 75-80rpm. Record how you felt at the end and make a decision on what cadence suits you best. Find what your optimal cadence is and try and keep to it.
Don’t let your bike dictate your cadence
In order to maintain your optimal cadence, ensure you have sufficient gears to maintain it – don’t force yourself to grind when you don’t want to.
For the PEAK EPIC it’s worth fitting a larger cassette than you think you’ll need so you always have a bail out gear (some parts are really steep). It’s far more impressive and satisfying to pedal a small gear than walk a bike with big gears!
Gear recommendations based on your cadence preference
85-100rpm – 34×32 or triple (this will ensure you can spin even on steepest slopes)
70-85rpm – 39×32 or 34×28
60-70rpm – 39×28 or 34×25
<60rpm – 39×23-25 (be prepared for sustained periods where cadence will drop below 65)
